“Blue Train,” I said, and the guard waved us through. We pulled up to a blue carpet next to the central train station in Cape Town, South Africa, where two butlers in blue vests and white gloves ...

On a trip from Cape Town to Pretoria, a reporter grapples with the whiplash of traveling through South Africa’s two worlds, from majestic mountains to struggling shantytowns. Credit... Supported by By ...