Why does travel always feel like a dream once it’s over? It took until we touched down on the tarmac at LAX for it to hit me: my short time in Rwanda — “The Heart of Africa” — had come and gone. The ...

When I told friends I was heading to Rwanda, I was surprised by their reaction. “So, you’re going to fist-bump gorillas?” they asked. Their response turned out to be rather accurate. The central ...